The story goes that Karumba, which owes its beginnings to the gold rush days of the 1880s, was originally something of a ‘Wild West’ settlement that was going to be named ‘Kimberley’. The teamsters, ship’s captains and the transient diggers who stopped there on the way to the Croydon goldfields, all wanted a definite name for the flimsy village in the sand and claypans, situated near the mouth of the Norman River on Queensland’s north-west coast. The newly arrived ‘locals’ apparently decided to ask the Aboriginal people, who they found had always known the area as ‘Karumba’… and Karumba it has remained!
Situated on the southern shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, today Karumba has a somewhat different mood. Even though it has grown significantly over the years, it still retains its strong, remote and colourful character. With a resident population of around 700 during the summer months, Karumba is a quiet, even sleepy centre, sometimes isolated by wet season floodwaters. During this time, locals tend to head south for a break from the tropical rain and heat.
Come April and May, however, things really change as a stream of visitors start pouring into town. Some come from nearby inland centres looking for their annual sea-change, but the majority come from much further afield. This is now a real tourist town. In the peak season months of July and August, Karumba’s population swells to around 4000 at any given time. In all, it is estimated the town has between 80,000 to 100,000 visitors each year.
The Karumba town entry signannounces you have reached the ‘Outback by the Sea’ – a very apt description of this remote northern centre. While most travellers get to Karumba by sealed roads, a number will include this stop-over in their remote Gulf adventure. As you look around town you will see a smattering of sedans, but out here (like a lot of outback Australia) 4WD vehicles are king of the road!
The Karumba town entry sign says it all
OCEANIC PULL
The reason for this ‘magnet-like’ attraction to Karumba is basically three-fold. Travellers come to escape the winter cold down south, to enjoy the friendly social atmosphere and – a real priority for many – the fishing!
Karumba’s reputation for fishing is right up there. The prize fish in this region are large barramundi, but close behind are the black Jewfish, grunter, blue and king salmon, queenfish and, for an exciting challenge, good sized Spanish mackerel, some up to 1.5m-long. These are landed (among great excitement and sometimes a little chaos) in small dinghies just off the coast. Another popular fishing activity is to set out pots for the large and very tasty mud crabs found in the many tidal, mangrove-lined creeks.
While some line fishing is done from the shore, many who come to Karumba each year bring their own dinghy, carried on the roof of their vehicle, with a collapsible trailer used to transport it the short distance to the boat ramp. The popular practice is to get out early and come back before the breeze picks up in the afternoon, and it is not uncommon for six or eight tinnies to be queued up at the boat ramp. While most fishos are pretty patient souls, the occasional ‘ramp rage’ provides onlookers with a spot of entertainment!
If you don’t bring your own dinghy, they can be hired in town. There are also half or full day fishing charters offered by several operators in Karumba. Local operators also run excellent ‘croc and crab’ tours, where you can spot some large local reptiles and catch mud crabs. These tours are good fun and the seafood and drinks served on board are to die for!
Fishing is big business in this part of the Gulf
The town is divided into two sections by a tidal flat – Karumba Township on the banks of the Norman River and Karumba Point at the mouth of the river and in close proximity to the Gulf. Both areas have good boat launching facilities close by.
When the wind is up, many fishos head up the Norman River, throwing lures for barra, trolling for queenfish or using dead bait for grunter. Offshore, fishing around Sandy Island for barra is often the go, or head a little further out to fish the ‘drop-off’ (the edge of the sand banks) for doggie and Spanish mackerel, grunter and queenfish.
There are fishing and prawning fleets operating out of Karumba and, if your own fishing hasn’t been rewarding, there’s no problem getting a good feed of fresh seafood from one of many outlets around town.
While you are out on the water, make a point of checking out the old Katoora shipwreck, blown into the mangroves in a cyclone and now high and dry on the banks of the Norman River, not far from town.
Fishing hopefuls launch at Karumba Point.
A PLACE OF DISCOVERY
Away from fishing, one of the popular activities in Karumba is a visit to the excellent Barramundi Discovery Centre. Hundreds of thousands of barramundi fingerlings have been raised at the centre for release into the rivers, dams, lakes and streams around the Gulf region. You can check out some really big barramundi (weighing up to 25kg), get involved in fish feeding and learn more about the life and habits of Australia’s prize fish species.
Elsewhere around town, you can’t miss the huge (Century) MMG mine port on the banks of the Norman River. Ore from the huge zinc and lead mine near Lawn Hill is loaded onto barges and taken out to sea where it is transferred to bulk carriers heading to a variety of destinations. Karumba is also a major port for the export of live cattle from the surrounding Gulf pastoral region.
For those interested in local history, there are some beaut information boards on the banks of the Norman River near the War Memorial, and out at the cemetery there are some interesting stories among the 20-plus graves, some dating back to the 1800s.
Dianne and Noel Gourley with two lovely barramundi.
Another interesting feature sometimes seen in this part of the Gulf region is the Morning Glory cloud – a rolling cloud formation that can sometimes extend up to 1000km across the horizon, just 100-200m above the ground. If you are not fortunate enough to see this spectacle during your visit, check out the beautiful mural on a fence near the edge of town, painted by resident artist Rodney Lucas.
For more active visitors, you can play a game of tennis, or enjoy a round of golf or lawn bowls at the Karumba Recreation Club on the edge of town, where visitors are always welcome. There is also a mangrove boardwalk, which covers almost 4km between Karumba Township and Karumba Point, and is perfect for a stroll.
The golden hour
The sunsets over the Gulf are often spectacular and you can enjoy them from the water on one of the popular tour boats, with sunset drinks and nibbles. Alternatively, make your way to Karumba Point, pull up a chair, open a coldie and enjoy the view. The Karumba Point Sunset Tavern is well placed for this activity and the beautiful sunset colours, combined with a friendly atmosphere, make it an occasion to remember. While you’re there, an evening meal at the tavern or at the well-patronised Ash’s Café across the road is an excellent way to end the day.
While on the topic of food, the Karumba Hot Bread bakery is also highly recommended. But be warned, you’ll need to call in early in the day, as by lunch time the place is often pretty much sold out!
Each week there are Sunday Markets held at the Karumba Point Tavern, where visitors and locals set up stalls – a great atmosphere prevails and you shouldn’t have any trouble picking up a bargain. While you’re out at the Point, take a stroll down onto the rocks at low tide and check out the thousands of small sea shells embedded, and virtually fossilised, in the rocks along the shore – quite fascinating.
Artist Rodney Lucas at his Morning Glory mural.
For bird lovers, Karumba is a sheer delight, with many species of birds including thousands that migrate every year. It is just a matter of getting out near the billabongs, clay pans, mangroves, wetlands, mud flats and along the river, particularly early morning and late evening, to take in the huge numbers of ‘feathered friends’ who call this region home for at least part of the year.
Bird lists and brochures are available from the visitors centre and bird watching boat tours are also available.
As you drive around town, you can’t miss the wandering brolgas, who seem to think they own the place and clearly expect you to give way as they casually stroll across the street!
Clearly, Karumba has plenty to offer travellers who want to park up and spend a while exploring the town and its surrounds. It’s certainly more than just a fishing destination and a visit here can easily develop into a holiday which you’re likely to want to repeat again and again.
Cattle from the surrounding pastoral region are exported from Karumba.
