Corinna and the Pieman River proved an irresistible spot on the map. Twice
In February 1999, travelling from Smithton to Strahan, Denise (a friend from Cairns) and I drove onto the ferry to cross the Pieman River at Corinna. That day, I made myself a promise: One day I would come back.
We’d spent less than 15 minutes at Corinna, including the ferry ride but the tiny outpost held for me an intriguing fascination. Having an appointment in Strahan, we had no time to dally and had gone in search of the ferry operator at 8.15am rather than wait for any official operating hours. Luckily, he was co-operative.
The day before, while booking a scenic flight over the Gordon and Franklin rivers from Strahan I had asked the booking officer “How long will it take me to drive down there from Smithton?” The reply was ‘two-and-a-half hours’ so we set the alarms for 5am for a 5.30 departure giving us five hours in which to take our time, stop for a brought-along breakfast, see the sights and so forth.
Apart from the excitement of travelling on a gravel road that had only been cut through the wilderness four years earlier, there wasn’t much to stop for, but the pace was not fast on the stony surface. The Western Explorer Road took us through some magnificent Tasmanian landscapes and we revelled in it. Time, however, seemed to be moving faster than we were. Before reaching Corinna we knew that something was wrong and that we would need to hurry to make our 10.30am flight time.
Between Arthur River and Corinna on the Western Explorer Highway
Our vehicle was a rental. My 1970 motorhome was ‘up on blocks’ so to speak. Ramps actually, waiting for a replacement gearbox to arrive from the mainland. My insurance provided motel accommodation and a rental car and although the allowance was for five nights it would allow only one motel in one location so the Strahan trek was a day trip, with plans to drive back via Roseberry and Bernie. Five days out of a fiveweek stay was not to be wasted sitting around waiting for parts.
As we drove the last 100m into Corinna, we noticed only four or five small and old huts, the weatherboards greyed through time as though they had never seen a coat of paint. Perhaps they hadn’t. There was no sign of life in what was still early morning. I do not remember seeing a vehicle. I do not remember hearing a sound.
After finding the co-operative but obviously still dressing ferry operator who said he’d be just 10 minutes, I walked back to Denise who had stayed with the car at the ferry. We looked at each other a moment and then both spoke at the same time. I said, “Do you hear banjos playing?” Denise’s one word was Deliverance. We did not laugh but discussed the eerie feel of the location.
Tarkane Hotel at Corinna
The Pieman River was exceptionally beautiful with its mirror clear reflections and, downstream, a floating mist added to the spooky atmosphere. It was deathly quiet until the footsteps of the ferryman had us looking at this large man, in bib and brace overalls and big bushy beard. He took our 10 dollars, didn’t say much, and took us across the river.
We made our flight with just five minutes to spare. “What possessed you to tell me that it was a two-and-a-half hour- drive from Smithton?” I demanded of the man who had taken my booking.
“Which way did you come?”
“That, my friend, you should have asked me yesterday!” Apparently the longer, more common (and soft) route via Burnie and Roseberry was a lot faster.
On June 4, 2014, I fulfilled my promise, and drove back into Corinna. This time, I was alone (with my dog Angus) and in my motorhome, Mylittlebus. This time, I had taken five days from Smithton, taking in Marrawah, Nettie Beach, Sarah Anne Rocks, Couta Rocks, Temma and spent a night in the wilderness, roadside on the Western Explorer Road which was still unsealed but now less stony – mostly a good surface.
MV Arcadia II
With a higher view from my vehicle, I realised I could see so much more of the vistas but perhaps I had been too anxious of the time 15 years earlier. Perhaps, with a passenger I had been busy chatting. Perhaps I had just forgotten. It was magnificent, and so different from anywhere else in Tasmania where I had, this time, already spent four months. The first part was very straightforward but half way to Corinna I was into my favourite type of driving, twisting and turning with the hills – the hills I had definitely forgotten about.
Two months earlier I had reached the southern banks of the Pieman River from Zeehan. Standing on the banks I had looked across and immediately saw that Corinna had changed. I could see a building that looked to be a shop. At that time, I thought, in relation to my promise, “close enough” and decided that the $25 ferry fee did not warrant a closer look. I would not be able to do the through journey to Smithton as I had heard from several sources that the Western Explorer Highway was blocked following a large landslide. It wasn’t until Couta Rocks, chatting with patrolling police that I learned the road had been re-opened after a seven-month closure.
The waterfall on my ‘solo’ guided tour
On arrival at Corinna the first thing I noticed was that all but one or two of the cottages had been painted. There was a shed with several red canoes, obviously for hire. The shop building turned out to be a hotel with a reception and a restaurant.
In 2004, Corinna, after sitting all but dormant for about 80 years, was leased out by the government. Corinna was now an eco-resort. The accommodation huts, out of site, circled the village. No other extra buildings could be seen and it wasn’t until I sited a town plan at reception that I knew about the accommodation huts and the extent of Corinna’s growth.
Corinna Resort accommodation huts
There is no internet. There is no mobile phone reception. Mobiles still come in handy; they tell you the time. Ninety percent of power is solar with the remainder and back-up coming from a generator, which is no doubt somewhat larger than mine. There is no town water. Tank water, from rainfall, is the only supply. There is no rubbish removal; all waste is taken out.
The Pieman River Cruises do not operate from June through August but I was offered a $30, one-hour, private cruise – an offer I took up. Dale, my escort and skipper, was very knowledgeable on the geological and pioneer history of the river and despite an audience of one, he was keen and very interesting. He showed me the sunken MV Croydon lying just under the water near the junction of the Savage River, and we stopped to walk the 120 national-park-built steps and walkway to a lovely waterfall in the rainforest.
Despite the resort having a camping area, I was permitted to stay overnight in the car park that edged the river, at no charge. In return, I decided to have lunch on my second day. I had not had as much as a hamburger out, for at least a month and life owed me a birthday treat.
The menu was simple. Soup, steak sandwich, cheese platter. I decided on two courses. My $22.50 lunch was superb, much too much (but I managed) and one course would have been sufficient. The green salad alongside the scrumptious and tender steak sandwich was as fresh as I’d seen anywhere. I came away with the soup recipe.
In honour of ‘the good old days’ I heard stories about the Pieman River being so named after a baker/pie man supposedly murdered someone and put pieces of the body in the pies he sold. I was told that it rains 300 days a year at Corinna but another estimate was that it rained about the same as in Sydney. I read the detailed history of Corinna in the late 1800s and early 1900s. I was shown a photo of the original barge that transported goods, cattle and horses across the river. It was really a raft on a cable.
The current ferry also operates on a cable so it’s really a barge, but calling it a ferry is much more romantic. The barge has operated for almost 100 years with the current one entering service in 1996. There is history entrenched here and there are stories galore to be heard.
Resort travellers meeting area
As already mentioned there was an approximate 80-year gap of any substantial activity in Corinna and it is said this is the time that resulted in many travellers commenting on the backward, hillbillylike and spooky atmosphere until very recent years.
If you approach from the south you can, if you like, leave your motorhome parked and come across for the day to see Corinna and perhaps enjoy a walk, or have lunch or hire a canoe. Coming from the north, as I did, there is a spacious car park, but beware: in busy times this car park is much, much smaller.
There are limits on the ferry, which runs on demand. Ferry cost is $20 for a car and $25 for larger and towing vehicles. In peak times, there may be waiting queues, as ‘multiple cars’ means two at a time. The actual crossing takes three minutes – about 6-7 minutes with loading and unloading. Maximum width is 2.5m. Maximum length is 9m from axle to axle. Maximum weight is 6.5 tons. This will exclude some of us but remember, you do not need the ferry to visit Corinna.
Campsites are $20 per site but there is only room for two motorhomes, so book early or risk looking for space in the car park. There is no powered camping but there is a camp kitchen, toilets and showers. There is a range of self-contained hut accommodation.
Except from June through August the MV Arcadia II – a wonderful 75-year-old Huon pine motor vessel – cruises every day leaving at 10am and returning at 2pm with lunch provided. Current cost is $90pp with a $10 discount for seniors.
There are several river and rainforest walks. There are kayaks and canoes for hire as well as other water vessels for shorter excursions on the river. Fishing is apparently quite good and platypus aplenty in the right places.
The barge at Corinna
I arrived at, and came away from, Corinna with a totally different feel than I experienced in 1999. The original impression was not bad, but it was eerie and intriguing. I’m so glad that I went back.
Since writing this article, I have secured a job at the Corinna Resort. If visiting, please be sure to mention CMCA and ask for me. I would love to see you and make you welcome.Visit my website at www.lisandmlb.com
