Members Sue and John Turner revel in the sights and sounds of New Zealand on this North Island sojourn.
We were en route to our first overnight camping spot. Rain was bucketing down like there was no tomorrow. There was nowhere to pull over on the narrow road, and visibility was negligible. A short while before this, we had a brief run through of the controls when we picked up our hire camper… but the wipers wouldn't stay on. John asked me to look up the manual. I am not the person to look up manuals on a narrow road in the middle of a torrential downpour. By some sort of miracle, I found the relevant instructions, and we could see our way forward. It was the first day of our six-week campervan hire on New Zealand's North Island.
We had called into the NZMCA head office on the outskirts of Auckland to pay our subs and collect our wings (a sticker to be displayed when staying at NZMCA camps). The NZMCA is New Zealand's equivalent to the CMCA. They have many campsites similar to the CMCA, but reserved for members only. I had already downloaded the travel app, similar to Traveller with all the usual places displayed – low cost camps, freedom camps, NZMCA camps and POPs (Park on Property) a similar idea to Members' Stopovers. Some POPs were free, others charged, some provided power and some amenities.
Our first morning started with a glorious view of our beachside freedom camp just east of Auckland, but in our onboard bathroom, water was swilling around in the base of the shower. The drain was blocked. We decided to return to Britz so they could sort it out, but the camper refused to start. The computer system wasn't recognising the key and wanted it placed in a slot, but where was the 'slot'? We couldn't find any slots. This time, the manual let us down. Thankfully, help was at the other end of the phone.
Winding Down the North Island: Coromandel and Waikato
On our way once again, we had a couple of nights near Thames on the Coromandel Peninsula – right near the beach. We continued up the narrow coastal road, over the steep hills and through the tiny town of Coromandel to Driving Creek Railway. The original owner, Barry Brickall, began the railway as a means to collect clay from the property for his pottery works … before he saw the railway's potential for tourism. He passed away many years ago but left a legacy of an amazing railway that zig-zags and loops up the hill of rejuvenated natural rainforest, taking tourists to the 'Eyefull Tower' and its magnificent view over the countryside and sea.
Being winter, there were fewer tourists on the road. The downside was that some of the tourist attractions were closed. Freedom camps by the beach were great. They generally came with signs warning of tsunamis and where to go in case of earthquakes. POPs were great too. One really stood out for location on the east coast near Hot Water Beach – a level parking area out in the country, surrounded by steep hilly paddocks, with grazing cows and a pair of New Zealand paradise ducks for company.
Beaches, Bubbles, and Bedside Lakes: New Zealand's North Island Attractions
Lots of place names on the North Island seemed to be full of vowels. Even the ones that looked straightforward were pronounced totally different than you would expect. Whangamata, the first one I thought I could pronounce, sounded nothing like it should. 'Wh' is pronounced 'F' and the rest went straight over our heads.
Rotorua, famous for its geysers and steam vents, had a distinct sulphurous smell about it with steam emitting from strange places. Driving through a main thoroughfare, we saw steam coming from the pavement in one place, then from a couple of abandoned houses. We walked through a park in the middle of town, with steam and boiling hot mud bubbling from the ground. A couple of pukekos, New Zealand native birds, were wading in the shallows looking for their next meal. Pukekos are similar to Tasmanian native hens in the way they flick their tails; but they are more attractive with red beaks, dark blue plumage and huge feet.
Crossing the range to Napier on the east coast, we freedom camped at the beach. This one was all small pebbles from the car park right to the water's edge. Signs warned of a dangerous drop-off in the water and to keep clear of seals. They need to rest, not get rescued, the signs said. The National Aquarium was only a short walk away, with a great collection of marine life.
In the country areas, there was a lot of dairy farming as well as sheep and some beef cattle, and areas of kiwifruit, mangoes, bananas and avocados, as well as temperate climate fruit. We had some beautiful spots to camp, beside lakes, in the middle of farming country, and by the sea, with some cold, frosty nights.
Cape Reinga Lighthouse
South Towards Wellington and Northern Highlights
Towards the southern end of the North Island, while camping by a beautiful lake, there was a 4.8 magnitude earthquake reported nearby one cold, frosty night. We slept through it, probably tired after a big day travelling. Then we crossed yet another mountain pass and descended towards Wellington (the capital city of New Zealand) with its huge harbour, ships and ferries coming and going to and from the South Island and no doubt elsewhere.
Heading north, we found another memorable camp beside Waimanu Lagoon, a wildlife sanctuary where we watched spoonbills, cormorants and oyster catchers seeking out their breakfast while we had ours. Cormorants nesting in nearby trees were feeding their huge, hungry babies.
John loves old cars, so what better place to visit than Southwards Museum – with more than 400 vehicles, mostly in beautiful condition, displayed in an enormous building.
Mount Taranaki reminded us of Japan's Mount Fuji, a snow-capped, conical-shaped mountain. Our aim was to see Dawson Falls partway up. We camped the night before at a slightly lower altitude at Hollard Gardens – a beautifully laid out garden established about 100 years ago on a 10-hectare plot donated to the local council and open to the public … with a freedom camp in the car park.
Continuing along the west coast north of Auckland, we came across a Kauri Museum and Kauri Forests. These ancient trees are in danger, not only from being felled for their beautiful coloured timber, but also from disease. Disinfectant dips for footwear were mandatory before entering any Kauri area to view the trees.
New Zealand has a huge variety of waterfalls, some more horizontal than vertical … like the Okere Falls and Huka Falls, with mindboggling quantities of water going through and others that were totally picturesque. Rainbow Falls at Kerikeri was just over the back fence of the NZMCA camp, with a beautiful walk through the bush. The location is said to be the habitat of the local kiwi population (of the bird variety).
Coromandel Peninsular
New Zealand's Northernmost Point: Bay of Islands RV Fun
On the far northern point of the North Island, you'll find Cape Reinga Lighthouse – below which waters of the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea swirl around. It felt like the wind was going to blow us into the sea. Then we travelled south along the east coast to another of our favourite places: The Bay of Islands.
At Paihia, we joined a cruise of the Bay of Islands. On Motuarohia/Roberton Island, in the footsteps of Captain Cook, we walked to the lookout for an incredible view over some of the 144 islands. During the cruise, we saw fairy penguins, New Zealand fur seals, and terns on an outer island. We cruised through the Hole in the Rock twice, saw heaps of birds further out to sea, and gazed at Cape Brett Lighthouse perched high on a distant hill. It was the best day cruise and a highlight of our trip.
Overall, the camper hire was a great success. It took us to so many places we would otherwise never have had the chance to see. In total, we covered 3,900 kilometres on the North Island; freedom camped 18 nights; and spent eight nights at POP sites, 14 nights at NZMCA camps and one night at a showgrounds.
One of the best things about this sort of holiday is the friendships gained with fellow travellers and at camps where we stayed. Several times we were invited to join other travellers for 'happy hour' in their caravans and motorhomes … and several have accepted the invitation to visit us at our island home.
For more information: nzmca.org.nz; newzealand.com
Island View Reserve
