Katherine Sellers explores the spectacular Cassowary Coast
Wallaman Falls
We had passed through the Hinchinbrook region of North Queensland several times but hadn’t managed to have a good look around, until now. The newly opened CMCA RV Park Ingham was an incentive to stop overnight. Warmly greeted by the custodians, we were provided with information, pamphlets of what to see and do, and directed where to park our motorhome. With the sun setting we settled into our camp chairs with a drink and antipasto plate (purchased from the Italian deli Lou’s Emporium located two blocks away in the main street), and planned our sightseeing activities for the next couple of days. As the light faded, hundreds of silhouettes whooshed overhead, which turned out to be an enormous colony of flying foxes in search of their nightly food.
Ingham Botanical Gardens
(Photo by TOURISM AND EVENTS QUEENSLAND)
EXPLORING INGHAM
After a peaceful sleep, we woke to a bright and clear morning, perfect for an early ride around the cane fields and township of Ingham. Cycling is an easy way to explore an area without following the usual signed routes, and we often stumble across interesting sights. The magnificent display of Mediterranean mausoleums at the New Ingham Cemetery about 5km out of town is impressive. The uniform rows of crypts and chapels adorned with Italian names and ornate colours, resemble a miniature village set in amongst well-manicured gardens.
Heading back towards the town centre we followed the sealed track of the Great Palm Walk, over creeks and through lush tropical trees and plants to the Ingham Memorial Botanical Gardens. Inside the Bicentennial Bush House, there are numerous orchid and palm varieties, an inspiration for any lover of native gardens. The squeak and chatter from high up in the adjacent trees answered our question as to the origins of last night’s mammal exodus.
Also in the gardens is the Immigrant Remembrance Wall, commemorating the eclectic mix of settlers who made their mark in the founding of Ingham; including the town’s namesake, Englishman William Bairstow Ingham. He came to the district to make his fortune in 1873, only to lose it all four years later, and then meet an untimely end in Papua New Guinea.
On the south side of town is the 271 acre (110 hectare) TYTO Wetlands site, which is a must for the avid twitcher. Boasting more than 240 different species, more than two-thirds of all Australian bird species, this land was destined to be developed until a couple of enthusiastic locals stepped in to save it. Armed with water, hats, sunscreen, insect repellent, camera, and a map from the helpful information centre, my husband and I managed to clock up 6.5 kilometres walking on the well formed paths around lagoons and woodlands.
Rows of sugarcanes
Bird songs accompanied us, and as we rested in hides along the way, only the sound of wings flapping and feet breaking water broke the silence. We spotted a few birds such as the colourful rainbow bee-eater, a red-browed finch, the majestic great egret and a white bellied cuckoo-shrike. We were not so lucky to see the wetland’s namesake; the Tyto capensis, or eastern grass owl. Timing and luck are everything.
Returning to the information centre we checked to see if we could add any new bird sightings to the daily board, and expanded our flora and fauna knowledge through the informative and interpretative displays. We completed our visit crossing the sugar cane bin architectural walkway to climb the 11-metre tower for 360-degree views of the wetlands and township.
Guided tours of the wetlands are available on Tuesdays and Saturdays only, and if we had more time, we would have also included a visit to the Regional Art Gallery. This natural and cultural precinct in the heart of Ingham is a real credit to the town’s citizens.
TYTO Wetlands
The drive to Australia’s highest permanent single drop waterfall, Wallaman Falls, takes about an hour from Ingham. The now fully sealed road skirts cane fields, passes through cattle grazing on and beside the road, before climbing up the range to Girringun National Park. It’s best to visit in the dry season, from April to September; however, it can rain anytime so drive with caution. It’s called the wet tropics for a reason! If the weather is clear, make a stop halfway up for sublime views of Hinchinbrook Island and the Herbert River Valley. Keep an eye out for the endangered southern cassowary as you journey to the top. Plunging 268 metres from the escarpment to a 20-metre pool below, Wallaman Falls is truly spectacular. From the lookout, those with a good level of fitness can tackle the 3.2km return walk through vine forest to the base of the falls. Remember you have to come back up! There is an easier 800m Banggurru loop along the banks of Stony Creek at the camping and day-use area, where platypus, water dragons and saw-shelled turtle hang out in the rock pools.
Returning to Ingham, we stopped at the 100-year-old historic post office at Trebonne along the way. This quaint wooden building is still serving the community, for an hour each weekday afternoon. After another big day sightseeing, we bought some freshly cooked local fish with chips from Wild Local Prawns around the corner and returned to the CMCA RV park for a friendly chat, and another flying fox display.
Hinchinbrook Island
HINCHINBROOK
The next morning we continued our tour of the Hinchinbrook region by\ turning east off the Bruce Highway for Lucinda, via Halifax. We passed Victoria Mill, once one of the largest sugarcane mills in the southern hemisphere, with its three tall steam stacks clearly visible in the distance. From June to November, the mill crushes 3.74 million tonnes of sugarcane, and recycles its waste into energy and feeds power back into the electricity grid. The raw sugar produced is then transported by rail to the port village of Lucinda, home of the world’s longest offshore sugar loading facility with a 6km long jetty stretching out to sea. A pity it’s off limits to the public, as a spin on the bike here would have been fun!
Australia’s largest island national park, Hinchinbrook Island, looms majestically in the background with its chain of rainforest clad granite crags rising to 1121 metres. As the closest mainland connection, Lucinda is the departure point for boat fishing charters in the channel or access to the well-known 32km Thorsborne Trail. The Palm Island Group is also nearby, which includes the luxury resort island of Orpheus.
The sleepy main street of Halifax, once the hub of the Herbert River district, is lined with heritage-listed mango trees and historic building facades. During the warmer months of December and January, the smell of mango hangs heavy in the air as abundant fruit falls from the trees and ferments in the hot sun.
Looping back onto the highway the road climbs north for some fantastic views of the Hinchinbrook Channel. There’s a lookout at the top – well worth the stop, if there is no cloud, to take in this magnificent World Heritage Area.
There is plenty more to explore along the Hinchinbrook Way, so we will just have to come back another time. Perhaps for the annual Australian Italian Festival in August, as the delicious fine homemade food was definitely a highlight of our stay.
The warm welcome from the custodians, plus the facilities of water, dump point and flat ground provided an easy choice for us to stay an extra night and enjoy what Ingham and surrounds has to offer.
