Not so much a gorge but a way of life!
When most of us think about the majestic gorges to be found around this great country of ours, we invariably turn our minds to remote wilderness regions miles from civilisation, and often there is a long arduous trek to get there.
Cataract Gorge, however, is one place that seems to break most of the rules.
For a start it is just 15 minutes’ walk from the centre of Launceston, Tasmania’s second largest city. It certainly fits the bill as a truly magnificent sight, and whether coming by road or on foot, it is only a short, easy trail before you are engulfed in its splendour. Also, unlike most other gorges around the country, for a visit to Cataract, it is not necessary to go armed with a backpack, survival rations, camping gear and the like. This is a much more civilised affair with a number of real surprises.
Starting at Kings Bridge (erected in 1867) a fully paved, easy walk trail (accessible by wheelchair) on the northern side of the Gorge meanders around the edge of the tall cliffs providing excellent views of the dolerite columns along the Gorge and the South Esk River as it serenely flows downstream into Launceston’s Tamar River. This trail, which took some eight years to construct, is a splendid introduction to some of the other attractions that Cataract has to offer. Locals say that a walk along here when the River is in flood during winter is a different and quite an exciting experience as well.
As the trail winds its way around the cliff face the Gorge opens up to reveal the splendid sight of the First Basin – one of the Gorge’s really special assets, for it is here that Cataract seems to come alive. It is, in fact, the real heart of the Gorge.
The natural pools found here are popular swimming spots for both locals and visitors alike, but be warned, the water is quite deep in parts and can be very cold. A much more civilised option is a dip in the (free) large, specially built, full sized pool (including a kids’ wading section) which is surrounded by attractive, lush, green, well maintained lawns and gardens.
The fully landscaped area here in the First Basin also features delightful picnic spots with free barbeques, the Gorge Restaurant and a café (serving the finest Tasmanian fare) all with lovely views over the Basin reserve. There is a band rotunda (built in 1896, now an interpretation centre recording the history of Cataract), a splendid children’s playground, colourful gardens with ferns, exotic plants and tall shady trees and families of wallabies and peacocks which wander and graze freely through the graceful Victorian gardens and lawns. The whole area here is a mixture of wilderness and tastefully developed facilities in a lovely old time natural setting – all within a stone’s throw of a major city.
Another special feature of the First Basin Reserve is its chairlift which crosses high over the Basin, offering, in a 10 minute ride, great views of the River waterfalls, Gorge and the picturesque Basin below. With an overall length of 457 metres and a 308 metre central span it is claimed to be the longest single span chairlift in the world.
The First Basin here at Cataract which can also be directly accessed by road to the Basin car park, is a great, easy outing from anywhere in Launceston. This whole place, in fact, is much more than an outing, it is a popular spot to go just for a cuppa or lunch in the café or restaurant, for a picnic, family or business outings, for kids’ parties, and is even a popular venue for garden weddings. Opera and Christmas carols in the Gorge also add to Cataract’s vital role as a centrepiece in Launceston’s way of life. It is also the city’s equivalent to a day out at ‘the beach’. As busy as it often is, it is still a tranquil, restful place where in the 192 hectares of reserve you can easily find a quiet corner to enjoy a good book or just relax and take in the splendid scenery in a unique bushland setting.
Upstream of the First Basin, the Alexandra Suspension Bridge (opened in 1904 and locally known as the ‘swinging bridge’) provides a swaying, but quite safe passage over the River and even more splendid views of the Gorge. There are also three nearby lookouts – Cataract, Alexandra and Eagle Eyrie – offering great vistas up and down the Gorge with the latter lookout (Eagle Eyrie) giving a commanding view of the entire reserve, Launceston City and the mountains beyond.
Good walking tracks lead further up the Gorge to the Second Basin and Duck Reach, some 45 minutes away. Duck Reach, in fact, is the site of the first municipal hydro-electric power station in Australia which provided power for Launceston from 1895 to 1955.
For those with plenty of energy left, a walk/climb trail known as the Zig Zag Track leads back along the southern rim section of the Gorge to Kings Bridge to complete the circuit walk trail. This Track however, (unlike the easy northern walkway) has some steep climbing sections and should only be undertaken by those who are fit and have good footwear for this energetic Trail. There are however some nice views along the way that make the effort worthwhile.
A delightful, award-winning Gorge cruise in an 1890s style vessel – the Lady Launceston – is also available, providing an enjoyable and relaxing way to experience from water level the towering, dramatic cliff faces of the Gorge.
Cataract has yet another attraction that makes it different from most other gorges around the country – its towering cliffs are lit up with colourful lighting at night. A special return visit after dark to take in this spectacle is indeed most worthwhile.
Yes indeed, a visit to Launceston is not complete without experiencing Cataract Gorge – come for an hour or two or spend a whole day exploring and enjoying the whole area and you’ll quickly see why this lovely Gorge is known as ‘the heartbeat of Launceston’.
