An Aussie RVer's guide to Iceland motorhome travel: campsites, waterfalls, and rugged beauty.
Waterfalls and Iceland Motorhome Travel
I walk behind a giant waterfall and get covered in spray as the wind changes direction. I'm in Seljalandsfoss, just a couple of hours' drive from Reykjavik. The waterfall is more than 60 metres high, and it's not the tallest waterfall in Iceland. Morsárfoss, at 220 metres, has that claim to fame. Seljalandsfoss and Morsárfoss are just two of the many breathtaking waterfalls readily experienced, and something that Iceland is famous for. However, they are only part of the Icelandic story.
RV Road Trip Iceland: A Journey Through Fire and Ice
We're on an eight-day trip, but for a full circuit of the island, consider 10 days at minimum. The overall landscape is spectacular and very photogenic. Hot springs and thermal areas include the well-known Strokkur Geyser at Geysir Hot Springs. Locations like Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon are great for walking, not to mention being entranced by the scenic splendour. Iceland is also something of a birdwatchers' paradise.
Planning for Iceland Motorhome Travel
There are several ways of touring Iceland – coach (big and small), self-driving car and by motorhome. I'm a bit fussy about the motorhome rental company I choose, so we opted for McRent. It's a German motorhome rental company that operates in New Zealand, one I have used before. The company has German-built Dethleffs and Sunlight motorhomes in the fleet. We were pleased with the well-equipped 7.4-metre Sunlight motorhome I'd booked for weather reasons alone. The diesel heater was welcome on cool nights, and the German manufacturers know how to build a motorhome.
Some self-driving car tours offer pre-booked accommodation, which has some advantages, like requiring less thinking, whereas self-driving requires considerable research beforehand, but you need to be conservative in calculating the distances travelled each day.
We initially anticipated doing a circuit of Iceland, the 'Ring Road' (about 1,320 kilometres), but by about day four, we realised we weren't going to make it… and you cannot go cross-country easily. The roads generally are narrow, and driving, especially if you are not used to left-hand-drive vehicles, does require some concentration. We did end up turning back, which isn't uncommon. Turning back merely meant visiting the attractions in the southern and south-west areas that we'd skipped on the way, and added a couple more around the Þingvellir National Park area.
Weather is a significant factor to plan for in Icelandic travel, particularly the wind. A condition of the motorhome rental is that if the wind gets above 15 metres/second, it is time to stop driving. That happened on our first day, which delayed us. We did, though, get to spend more time in Reykjavik. In the summertime, daylight is 24 hours – so some attractions can be visited from early morning to late evening.
Iceland Campsites for RVs and Navigation Tips
Google Maps is your friend for getting around. Icelandic names like Kirkjubæjarklaustur or Eyjafjallajökull (the Iceland volcano that erupted in 2010) are difficult to find on a map, let alone pronounce. Google Maps was very good at predictive text after about the first four letters. Good Hema-like map books are available in bookshops and tourist places for those who like paper maps. Check your phone service provider for locations. After arriving, we discovered that Telstra does not offer a roaming service in Iceland! Belatedly, I purchased a European eSIM, which worked very well. However, it does require an internet connection, and it's smarter to set it up before leaving home!
Driving in Iceland: Know Before You Go
All RV travellers must stay at a campsite; there's no freedom camping. Don't expect to find something like what you are used to in Australia. Facilities like toilets, showers and camp kitchens frequently don't match the number of campers. It didn't worry us so much because we were totally self-contained; but for some small van campers (think a bed and not much else) it was more of a problem, particularly when it rained.
Not all camping sites will take bookings ahead, and not all have booked sites. That was only a problem if you wanted power. Icelandic rental motorhomes don't have fresh water or a grey water hose. Dump points are frequent, usually outside the camping ground, and draining the grey water is a matter of driving over the drain and opening the grey tank valve. It's a great idea, and there's no fiddling with a hose. While waiting for that, the toilet cassette can be emptied simultaneously. There was usually a fresh water supply complete with a hose nearby.
Why Iceland Motorhome Travel Captivates Aussie RVers
But there are plenty of reasons to go. The Awe-inspiring nature of the Icelandic landscape and all its geographical features is a wonder to behold and very captivating. It's a country that has a slightly 'frontier' feel, yet it has all the comforts of civilisation we are used to.
