It had been an unusually long winter in WA, promising the prospect of bumper wildflower season, so to head north through spring was a very attractive proposition. Our plan was to escape the tail-end of winter, see some flowers and visit our friend in Karratha for her birthday.
We set off in early September from Bunbury, via the South West Highway, spotting our first patches of wonderful kangaroo paws near Yarloop, the town sadly destroyed by fire in January. We then settled for the night at a beaut rest area adjacent to the Great Northern Highway at Bullsbrook, a few kilometres north of the Swan Valley.
We arrived next at Chittering Valley, to find a riot of the gloriously blue leschenaultia lining our route to the monastery town of New Norcia. The word from our friends was that the gravel pit at Perenjori was also worth a visit for its display of the rare wreath flower, and it certainly was – our photo graced the contents page of November’s The Wanderer!
That night we camped (surrounded by flowers again) in the bush near Mullewa, a town with a grand church built by Monsignor Hawes.
The next day promised the enticing prospect of 26°C at Meekatharra – into the northern winter at last. The carpets of colour found nearby certainly enhanced the scrubby bush, but the real treat was the welcoming sense of our vast continent and its broad vistas, plus the endless landscape and its warmth.
RED DIRT TOWN
Next came the Pilbara. We opted to bypass the previously explored Karijini National Park, instead enjoying our journey through the Ophthalmia Range and Munjina Gorge, surprisingly reaching a final elevation of 750m.
Awesome 86-wheeled road trains are frequent on the road to Port Hedland, and this red-streaked town is a green oasis in the WA desert, where 30°C had us seeking shade, so welcome after the wintery south. The stockpiles of salt and iron ore littering Hedland, plus its huge ore trains and cargo ships are pretty impressive.
Our true destination was Karratha, but the iconic Whim Creek pub is a great place to visit and camp. We couldn’t resist!
Having previously explored the attractions the North West Coastal Highway offers, this time we did not go to Point Samson, Cossack, Python Pool, Onslow or the Cape Range National Park, but if you’ve never been, they are definitely worth your time.
Highlights instead were enjoying the balmy alfresco days and evenings in Karratha, plus local forays with our friends who have lived there since 1978. Gary is the resident expert on Burrup Peninsula rock art, and also knows where to find mud lark nests – the benefits of being a long-time local.
Carpets of pink mulla mulla and patches of red Sturt’s desert pea enhanced the landscape outside of town, contrasting with green spinifex, red dirt and purple hills.
Hutt Lagoon
THE GASCOYNE REGION
Heading south again, Coral Bay was a little windy, but its sparkling blue waters and abundant coral are beautiful any time of year. Swimming just off the safe beach with mask and snorkel, the coral and fish were gorgeous – so glad we made that little detour.
Carnarvon – on the banks of the mighty Gascoyne River – is another oasis, and a great place to visit the plantations to buy bananas and vegetables. Plus, if you’re into angling, the local the fishing and crabbing are hard to beat.
Colourful displays of wreath flowers
MURCHISON COLOURS
More springtime colours were in abundance as we made our way to the Murchison River region. One of the many excellent 24-hour campsites with toilets and dump points we found is on a billabong of the Murchison River at Galena Bridge, where we had an overnighter before turning off the highway towards Kalbarri. Nearby, we loved the lookouts at Murchison Gorge with its profusion of smoke bush and kangaroo paws.
The lovely Monsignor Hawes Church near Mullewa
The moderate temperatures and riverfront caravan park site at Kalbarri were also much enjoyed, as was the drive down to Port Gregory, past the very pink Hutt Lagoon, home of Prince Leonard, self-appointed monarch of Hutt River Province.
Soon though, it was time for a return to southern climes (and the accompanying showers), but still with the promise of abundant wildflowers. The jarrah forests of the Darling Range come alive by the end of September, just in time for our arrival home.
Overall, our wildflower hunt (and escape from winter) covered just less than 5000km in our 2006 Kea Dreamtime – named Elvie – which stands for Lovely Vehicle (LV) rather than the usual ‘RV’.
A stroll along Carnarvon’s Fascine
DIANNE AND KIM’S FAVOURITE CAMPSITES
- Mt Robinson 24-hour rest area: On the Newman-Port Hedland Road, this is an excellent camp with toilets and dump point, shaded tables and phone signal, plus lovely views and walking opportunities.
- Robe River 24-hour rest area: Adjacent to the Pannawonica turnoff, this one also sports toilets and dump point, tables and phone service. No water or budgies this time around, but in 2011 we thrilled to the sight of millions of budgerigars and water views.
- Gascoyne River south branch 24- hour rest area: All the usual facilities, with the bonus of finches!
- Greenbushes Pool: This camp is further south so we didn’t visit it on this northern tour, but anyone who’s come west for the wildflowers would like this place. You can stay 72 hours and the historic mining town of Greenbushes and lovely Bridgetown are nearby and the Darling Range has a variety of flowers that are abundant in September and October.
