Where the Cicadas Dwell

Nitmiluk's towering sandstone cliffs are one of Australia's most recognisable landscapes. But as Glenn Marshall discovers, the greatest story here isn't captured in the rock, it's in the Jawoyn people who call it home.


The Stories Told by the Jawoyn People Resonate Most

Featured Image: Baruwei Lookout, Nitmiluk Gorge © Tourism and Events Northern Territory/Roady Travel

Nitmiluk's towering sandstone cliffs are unforgettable, but it's the stories told by the Jawoyn people that resonate most, writes Glenn Marshall.

The cicadas are impossible to ignore. Their chorus echoes through the towering sandstone walls as our boat glides quietly into First Gorge. Above us, ochre-coloured cliffs rise more than 70 metres from the still waters of the Katherine River. It's one of Australia's most recognisable landscapes, yet I'm about to discover that Nitmiluk's greatest story isn't captured in the rock, but in the people who call it home.

Like most travellers, I'd come to Nitmiluk National Park (formerly Katherine Gorge) to experience one of the Northern Territory's great natural wonders. As a road-trip destination, it ticks every box. It's an easy drive from Katherine, there's an excellent campground for caravans and motorhomes, walking trails branch off in every direction, and cruises and canoe adventures tempt visitors onto the water.

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